DIY help...

On the suggestion of Just_jimmy who had the great idea of a thread for DIY help, so here we go...

Personally I'm a pretty big DIY'er with something always going on.

Currently fitting out a media room with acoustics and removing an oven (from a campervan) to replace it with a custom made cupboard. The latter is proving to be a huge pain in the ass although I am waiting for a 35mm jig to arrive today to help the drilling of the hinge bits 😃

I've also got a garden business so hopefully I can help with any garden questions 💪

When I fit my bathroom, she was adamant that she wanted this wooden bath panel. So now it’s, unsurprisingly, got a few wee cracks in it. The wood isn’t swollen yet, but I’m not sure the best way to attack it?

It's nothing I've done before but I would have assumed that the manufacturer would have used marine ply or treated it with something water resistant. Maybe best just to replace it?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Wembley67

On the suggestion of Just_jimmy who had the great idea of a thread for DIY help, so here we go...

Personally I'm a pretty big DIY'er with something always going on.

Currently fitting out a media room with acoustics and removing an oven (from a campervan) to replace it with a custom made cupboard. The latter is proving to be a huge pain in the ass although I am waiting for a 35mm jig to arrive today to help the drilling of the hinge bits 😃

I've also got a garden business so hopefully I can help with any garden questions 💪

---

:thumbsup: beat me to it mate.

I'm excited for grass season, love my lawncare stuff.

Got big plans for the year, will be back for advice when I inevitably make a cock up!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Wembley67

It's nothing I've done before but I would have assumed that the manufacturer would have used marine ply or treated it with something water resistant. Maybe best just to replace it?

---

The easiest fix of the actual bath panel is definitely changing it out, but to do that I have to unplumb the sink and move that unit out the way too, which is a hassle.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Jones28

:thumbsup: beat me to it mate.

I'm excited for grass season, love my lawncare stuff.

Got big plans for the year, will be back for advice when I inevitably make a cock up!

---

Someone on here a few years ago had an ambition to lay a new lawn to bowling green standards.

If you're still here, how did you get on?


I've reached a time of life where its now just wee maintenance jobs rather than projects.

I've got a problem at the moment with the extractor fan in the bathroom. It's making a bit more noise than it should. I took the cover off yesterday and gave it a good clean, a wee spray of WD40, but couldn't get much further into the workings of it. It's still rattling a bit.

Can I take it further apart or is this a replacement job?

Any thoughts?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Jones28

:thumbsup: beat me to it mate.

I'm excited for grass season, love my lawncare stuff.

Got big plans for the year, will be back for advice when I inevitably make a cock up!

---

Love a bit lawn p0rn. My TikTok feed is full of seasonal lawn care.
Invested quite a bit of time & money last year with a few bulk bags of enriched top soil to dress the lawn along with a shed load of horticultural sand to help with drainage.
The garden I've inherited is quite heavy/clay so I've also had to invest in decent grass seed suitable for wet areas such as red fescue & ryegrass.
I'll be starting again in about 4 weeks, taking plugs out the ground with a hollow tine aerator to allow oxygen in to the roots. Then it'll be a scalping(temperature dependant), a scarify & rake followed by a good seed & feed for the new season.
I've clearly got too much time on my hands but there's nothing better than a healthy lawn that needs cut twice a week in the summer followed by a well deserved cold beer as you sit back and admire your work!

Don't be caught out with the 'fake' spring Speedy. So many folk as me to come out and start lawn repair in March and every single time I'll turn it down.

Generally we have a warm weekend and we think yeah here we go!!! Then inevitably a heavy frost comes or even worse snow that can cause serious damage to your lawn especially if it's been scarified or aearated!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Wembley67

Don't be caught out with the 'fake' spring Speedy. So many folk as me to come out and start lawn repair in March and every single time I'll turn it down.

Generally we have a warm weekend and we think yeah here we go!!! Then inevitably a heavy frost comes or even worse snow that can cause serious damage to your lawn especially if it's been scarified or aearated!

---

It's only my 4th year at this house and its taken me the past 3 years to bring the lawn back to something half decent, and I've learned loads on the way (I even tweeted Hibs new groundsman for tips).
To be fair, I usually don't scalp and scarify until April. I certainly couldn't last year as the ground was absolutely sodden and my scarifier would have turned the lawn in to something akin to a tattie field!
I'll still aim to take plugs out the ground and fill with sand. Hard graft but worth it.

As an ex joiner, I am pretty handy and can turn my hand to most jobs. My biggest problem is my addiction to buying new tools. 😀
I always like to buy quality rather than cheap so it’s an expensive hobby. Even as an apprentice many years ago I always saved to by the best there was on the market. Admittedly when I see joiners working now, if it hasn’t got a battery they don’t use it but I love my traditional hand tools.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Scouse Hibee

As an ex joiner, I am pretty handy and can turn my hand to most jobs. My biggest problem is my addiction to buying new tools. ��
I always like to buy quality rather than cheap so it’s an expensive hobby. Even as an apprentice many years ago I always saved to by the best there was on the market. Admittedly when I see joiners working now, if it hasn’t got a battery they don’t use it but I love my traditional hand tools.

---

I will be leaning heavily on you for advice then :)

I totally get the tool thing. I thought my tools were pretty decent then I inherited a whole bunch of Festool stuff from my late father and WOW, this stuff is good. Table saw, chop saw, mitre you name it I now have them in my possession. I honestly do not thing I'll have to buy another power tool again in my life!

If anyone wants anything made out of wood let me now, it may look crap but it's fun doing it :na na:

It got me thinking about classic handtools and I also inherited a yankee screwdriver, I remember my old boy always keeping it way out of reach for little hands and now I know why. That thing is bloody lethal!!

When you buy grass seed on the box or bag it should stipulate what is contained in the mixture - it will almost always be a mixture.

Don’t buy grass seed that contains “lolium westerwoldicum” or “lolium multiflorum”, these are short term species that will die off after a year or two.

I know the likes of BM bargains etc buy this from wholesalers as it’s very cheap, but you’ll need to do it all again in a year or two!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by speedy_gonzales

Love a bit lawn p0rn. My TikTok feed is full of seasonal lawn care.
Invested quite a bit of time & money last year with a few bulk bags of enriched top soil to dress the lawn along with a shed load of horticultural sand to help with drainage.
The garden I've inherited is quite heavy/clay so I've also had to invest in decent grass seed suitable for wet areas such as red fescue & ryegrass.
I'll be starting again in about 4 weeks, taking plugs out the ground with a hollow tine aerator to allow oxygen in to the roots. Then it'll be a scalping(temperature dependant), a scarify & rake followed by a good seed & feed for the new season.
I've clearly got too much time on my hands but there's nothing better than a healthy lawn that needs cut twice a week in the summer followed by a well deserved cold beer as you sit back and admire your work!

---

Nothing better eh? Especially on a Friday night in the summer.

My lawn is looking pretty sorry for itself but I’m optimistic for the year. I got a cylinder lawn mower last year that has a scarifying cartridge, can wait to break that out.

Anyone know anything about servicing petrol mowers? Are parts pretty generic?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Wembley67

It's nothing I've done before but I would have assumed that the manufacturer would have used marine ply or treated it with something water resistant. Maybe best just to replace it?

---

Unfortunately not, most are made from MDF with a plastic veneer on them. MDF & water don't go.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Jones28

Anyone know anything about servicing petrol mowers? Are parts pretty generic?

---

I'm no mechanic, but I only use premium petrol (97 ron) as the new E10 (standard unleaded) has a habit of absorbing water (because of the ethanol) which rots the fuel lines, a problem with mowers and chainsaw when they sit idle for a few months of the year.
Even then, I drain fuel and oil and always clean the spark plug from any carbonisation at the end of every gardening "season".

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Itsnoteasy

Unfortunately not, most are made from MDF with a plastic veneer on them. MDF & water don't go.

---

Absolutely

I can put a thin coat of silicone over the wee cracks but it’s just coming off after a week or so.

There must be a water proof varnish or something that will adhere and can be painted on.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Jones28

Anyone know anything about servicing petrol mowers? Are parts pretty generic?

---

Fixed a few petrol mowers in my time, as already stated it’s usually a gummed up carburettor that’s the problem, they are fairly simple things to clean and also cheap to replace. You’ll pick up a generic Chinese copy for £10-£15 off eBay.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Wembley67

On the suggestion of Just_jimmy who had the great idea of a thread for DIY help, so here we go...

Personally I'm a pretty big DIY'er with something always going on.

Currently fitting out a media room with acoustics and removing an oven (from a campervan) to replace it with a custom made cupboard. The latter is proving to be a huge pain in the ass although I am waiting for a 35mm jig to arrive today to help the drilling of the hinge bits 😃

I've also got a garden business so hopefully I can help with any garden questions 💪

---

Hope you've got a tracker in your camper. A friend had they're conversion that they had built stolen not that long ago. Gutting for them considering the hours they'd put in converting it

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Fuzzywuzzy

Hope you've got a tracker in your camper. A friend had they're conversion that they had built stolen not that long ago. Gutting for them considering the hours they'd put in converting it

---

It was one of the first things I fitted. It's a crying shame that anything you work hard for can disappear in a blink of an eye :boo hoo:

Anyone ever refurbed a pool table?

I took a leisurely meander down to Hull yesterday to pick up a 7ft by 4ft table that has spent a long time outside.

There’s a lot of wet wood, any thoughts on how long this will take to dry out?

The slate is a single piece and has a crack which can be repaired.

Planning to do everything ourselves, woodworking to re-felting.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Jones28

Anyone ever refurbed a pool table?

I took a leisurely meander down to Hull yesterday to pick up a 7ft by 4ft table that has spent a long time outside.

There’s a lot of wet wood, any thoughts on how long this will take to dry out?

The slate is a single piece and has a crack which can be repaired.

Planning to do everything ourselves, woodworking to re-felting.

---

Scouse Hibee may be able to give some advice

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Jones28

Anyone ever refurbed a pool table?

I took a leisurely meander down to Hull yesterday to pick up a 7ft by 4ft table that has spent a long time outside.

There’s a lot of wet wood, any thoughts on how long this will take to dry out?

The slate is a single piece and has a crack which can be repaired.

Planning to do everything ourselves, woodworking to re-felting.

---

Just read this. Will happily offer any advice I can. I was a billiard table fitter for several years and also worked on many different types of pool tables in that time. What type of pool table is it, a coin operated type with internal ball runs or a table with net pockets and ball rails? Also interested to hear how badly the slate is cracked? Are the rubbers on the cushions perished, and just how wet did it get?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Scouse Hibee

Just read this. Will happily offer any advice I can. I was a billiard table fitter for several years and also worked on many different types of pool tables in that time. What type of pool table is it, a coin operated type with internal ball runs or a table with net pockets and ball rails? Also interested to hear how badly the slate is cracked? Are the rubbers on the cushions perished, and just how wet did it get?

---

Ah Scouse, just the guy I need! Thanks for getting back to me.

Table is pockets with ball rails.

No manufacturer information on the table, I think it's been modified a few times in it's life. We stripped the felt off last night, the crack in the slate is the full width of the table - the slate is a large single piece so it was heavy. It looks like it has previously been repaired at a corner. The crack will need patched - what would you advise?

The rubbers are ok - very responsive when you play a ball off them.

It has been left outside for I would estimate at least a year, probably longer if the build up of green crap on the felt is anything to go by - it's for my garage so didn't want to spend heaps of money on it to buy.

Last night we took all the felt off the table and plan to strip the felt off the cushions in the next week or so.

Then we're going to leave the wood exposed to help it dry out and replace any pieces that are beyond repair. The actual wood on the important bits of the table looks fine, it's still got varnish on it so it has had some protection.

We're planning to re-cover everything ourselves and have a table we can play on - not looking for particularly high standards!

I can send you some pictures on Whatsapp or something if that would be helpful?

Cheers.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Jones28

Ah Scouse, just the guy I need! Thanks for getting back to me.

Table is pockets with ball rails.

No manufacturer information on the table, I think it's been modified a few times in it's life. We stripped the felt off last night, the crack in the slate is the full width of the table - the slate is a large single piece so it was heavy. It looks like it has previously been repaired at a corner. The crack will need patched - what would you advise?

The rubbers are ok - very responsive when you play a ball off them.

It has been left outside for I would estimate at least a year, probably longer if the build up of green crap on the felt is anything to go by - it's for my garage so didn't want to spend heaps of money on it to buy.

Last night we took all the felt off the table and plan to strip the felt off the cushions in the next week or so.

Then we're going to leave the wood exposed to help it dry out and replace any pieces that are beyond repair. The actual wood on the important bits of the table looks fine, it's still got varnish on it so it has had some protection.

We're planning to re-cover everything ourselves and have a table we can play on - not looking for particularly high standards!

I can send you some pictures on Whatsapp or something if that would be helpful?

Cheers.

---

Have sent you a PM to WhatsApp me.

How do I get a sticky glue solvent of a window.

That’s my worry :thumbsup:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by silverhibee

how do i get a sticky glue solvent of a window.

That’s my worry :thumbsup:

---

wd 40

Massive shout for Scouse - has offered me excellent advice and offered his input throughout - top man :aok:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Jones28

Massive shout for Scouse - has offered me excellent advice and offered his input throughout - top man :aok:

---

Reading the post above, I was worried you'd send loads of photos and details and just get a reply of "wd 40"

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by silverhibee

How do I get a sticky glue solvent of a window.

That’s my worry :thumbsup:

---

Get a Wife 🫣

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by silverhibee

How do I get a sticky glue solvent of a window.

That’s my worry [emoji106]

---

WD40.

Or try a little bit of cooking oil on a bit kitchen roll - this is a brilliant method to get sticky labels off your new golf clubs.
Tell your wives to let you buy new clubs to test it [emoji6]

Sent from my SM-G991B using Tapatalk

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Bridge hibs

Get a Wife 🫣

---

Better just replacing the glass via a glazer tbh, much cheaper in the long run.

Sent from my SM-G991B using Tapatalk

We bit the bullet and have booked in a local company to do our soffits and fascia’s.

Having had the guy round to do the survey its probably a bigger job than I have the will and time for.

Would have been a satisfying job to do but in the long run it’s an investment in the house. Hopefully be done late March.

What I do want to DIY is giving the roof a clean before the new bits - anyone got any recommendations for methods? Power washing is probably out as the roof tiles are original, so would want to do a chemical clean and rinse off with the hose.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Jones28

We bit the bullet and have booked in a local company to do our soffits and fascia’s.

Having had the guy round to do the survey its probably a bigger job than I have the will and time for.

Would have been a satisfying job to do but in the long run it’s an investment in the house. Hopefully be done late March.

What I do want to DIY is giving the roof a clean before the new bits - anyone got any recommendations for methods? Power washing is probably out as the roof tiles are original, so would want to do a chemical clean and rinse off with the hose.

---

You could give these guys a shout for a roof clean? I've used them for a couple of jobs before and they have been outstanding (and very affordable!

https://www.bdsproclean.co.uk/

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Itsnoteasy

Unfortunately not, most are made from MDF with a plastic veneer on them. MDF & water don't go.

---

I’ve been fitting composite bath panels the last few years. Same width as the old MDF ones and they look pretty good.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Wembley67

You could give these guys a shout for a roof clean? I've used them for a couple of jobs before and they have been outstanding (and very affordable!

https://www.bdsproclean.co.uk/

---

Cheers, I'll check that out. I've seen some chemical cleaning products online that I could do for around £100 and a morning buggering about on the roof.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Scouse Hibee

wd 40

---

Worked a treat Scouse, cheers.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Bridge hibs

Get a Wife 🫣

---

I’m asking on her behalf :thumbsup:

She has done a great job by the way, now I can let her get the tea on. :cb

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Just_Jimmy

WD40.

Or try a little bit of cooking oil on a bit kitchen roll - this is a brilliant method to get sticky labels off your new golf clubs.
Tell your wives to let you buy new clubs to test it [emoji6]

Sent from my SM-G991B using Tapatalk

---

Never done a round of golf in my life, like to go watch it when the wife allows me to though :greengrin

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by silverhibee

I’m asking on her behalf :thumbsup:

She has done a great job by the way, now I can let her get the tea on. :cb

---

🤣

Probably a wee bit more technical than DIY but I'll try here anyway. I'm looking to get new double glazing fitted with new front and side doors which should be simple enough bar finding the right company to do it but I've also got a very good set of Kloeber hardwood bifolds stored in my garage which I'm also looking to use to replace an old set of patio doors in the back. The bifolds are wider than the patios (240cm against 175cm approx) so I think I'll need a new lintel (steel?) unless I'm lucky and the original lintel is wide enough. How do I go about getting planning, is it architect and in turn structural engineer or structural engineer alone? Last time I went through similar when changing an internal single door to a double on a load bearing wall I paid some guy (sadly passed) £60 cash and he sorted everything.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by silverhibee

Worked a treat Scouse, cheers.

---

👍

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Andy Bee

Probably a wee bit more technical than DIY but I'll try here anyway. I'm looking to get new double glazing fitted with new front and side doors which should be simple enough bar finding the right company to do it but I've also got a very good set of Kloeber hardwood bifolds stored in my garage which I'm also looking to use to replace an old set of patio doors in the back. The bifolds are wider than the patios (240cm against 175cm approx) so I think I'll need a new lintel (steel?) unless I'm lucky and the original lintel is wide enough. How do I go about getting planning, is it architect and in turn structural engineer or structural engineer alone? Last time I went through similar when changing an internal single door to a double on a load bearing wall I paid some guy (sadly passed) £60 cash and he sorted everything.

---

The difference in the width will almost certainly mean you’ll need a new lintel, when the span of the lintel increases then I’d expect the depth of the new lintel to increase as well. So first port of call is a structural engineer to confirm what size of lintel would be required. If the new lintel is significantly deeper (height) then you’ll need to check if there is enough space from the soffit (bottom) of the lintel to the ceiling inside, as it may not be able to be fitted easily. A lot will depend on how much loading is on the lintel, upstairs floor, roof?

Electrics make me hella nervous, I like water cos at least you can see it.

Anyway, replaced an old light yesterday (earth, live, neutral wires in to old fitting), new light only had live and neutral.

Earth wire has nowhere to go in the new light, I've read online that it needs to be properly terminated.

There's a junction box in the ceiling, will there be a place for it to go in there or do I need to buy something else.

I was thinking about getting a set of Wago connectors anyway, and could use a single connector in the set to terminate the earth.

Chat GPT says this is the best option, what does Chat HFC think?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Jones28

Electrics make me hella nervous, I like water cos at least you can see it.

Anyway, replaced an old light yesterday (earth, live, neutral wires in to old fitting), new light only had live and neutral.

Earth wire has nowhere to go in the new light, I've read online that it needs to be properly terminated.

There's a junction box in the ceiling, will there be a place for it to go in there or do I need to buy something else.

I was thinking about getting a set of Wago connectors anyway, and could use a single connector in the set to terminate the earth.

Chat GPT says this is the best option, what does Chat HFC think?

---

If the earth is not required for the new fitting, I'd isolate (a wago would work perfectly well) and tuck in to the ceiling for potentially future use.
However, some light fittings/roses have screw type connector blocks, there's usually spare points there that the earth could be secured in, again, for future use.

Edited to add, just be sure it's a separate "block", don't put it alongside the neutral or live even though those blocks might also have spare ports.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Alfiembra

The difference in the width will almost certainly mean you’ll need a new lintel, when the span of the lintel increases then I’d expect the depth of the new lintel to increase as well. So first port of call is a structural engineer to confirm what size of lintel would be required. If the new lintel is significantly deeper (height) then you’ll need to check if there is enough space from the soffit (bottom) of the lintel to the ceiling inside, as it may not be able to be fitted easily. A lot will depend on how much loading is on the lintel, upstairs floor, roof?

---

Cheers bud, turns out I can't use them anyway as my livingroom runs the full length of the house without supporting cross walls so taking more out the back wall will leave the side wall weaker to side winds etc. Steel goalposts were mentioned but it'll turn out more expensive just for the fitting than it would be to get new french doors supplied and fitted.

On the DIY front I bought a 4d laser level with a green laser on offer with a free tripod/pole, not sure if I'll use it more for its intended purpose or for Friday night parties, it's impressive.

Anyone any experience on wood flooring, engineered or solid? glue, floating or nailed? Underlay or no underlay? There's so much conflicting advice online. Also an expansion joint is always recommended but why would you need one if the floor is nailed or glued, I'm lost?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Andy Bee

Anyone any experience on wood flooring, engineered or solid? glue, floating or nailed? Underlay or no underlay? There's so much conflicting advice online. Also an expansion joint is always recommended but why would you need one if the floor is nailed or glued, I'm lost?

---

I've never laid it but had it done throughout my last two houses.

My preference is for real wood but engineered is OK. The guy that did it glued and tacked it.

Underlay keeps the dust from coming through in old houses and with the current concrete base on the ground floor of our new house provides much needed insulation.

Expansion will happen during the seasons. Not making an allowance could end up with the floor buckling and bending.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Andy Bee

Anyone any experience on wood flooring, engineered or solid? glue, floating or nailed? Underlay or no underlay? There's so much conflicting advice online. Also an expansion joint is always recommended but why would you need one if the floor is nailed or glued, I'm lost?

---

Ive done my own floors over the years, I started off with laminate but to be honest it was cheap **** and chipped over time as well as being a nightmare to lock in as it was crumbly MDF.

When I lifted it I put down a real wood flooring and the laying of it and finish was top quality, expensive but far less bloody stressful. I used 5/7 mm underlay to provide a “cushioning” as well as levelling off any imperfections on your floorboards. A good quality underlay can also preserve heat and absorbs natural moistures.

With regards expansion gaps remember wood is a hygroscopic material, meaning it absorbs and releases moisture, causing it to expand and contract.

Without an expansion gap your floor may not have enough room to adjust to these natural movements, leading to problems like cupping or bowing, even if tacked. I removed and replaced all my skirting boards too giving a neat finish.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Andy Bee

Anyone any experience on wood flooring, engineered or solid? glue, floating or nailed? Underlay or no underlay? There's so much conflicting advice online. Also an expansion joint is always recommended but why would you need one if the floor is nailed or glued, I'm lost?

---

I bought cheap **** from B&Q and had a fairly disastrous plumbing leak - we were doing a utility room, as much by ourselves as possible, so lifted the old floor, lifted the subfloor, insulated the rafters underneath, relaid subfloor then chucked down this laminate.

It was HORRIBLE to fit, we needed to get a whole line clipped together before we could fit it to the stuff already laid, it was impossible to do it on your own so my wife and I had to do it together.

A couple of weeks after that we had the leak - some plumbing had burst and we had mains pissing all over the floor - our fault. It warped to hell and is now horribly chipped.

Basically, don’t buy cheap.

Cheers folks, I think I'm going to get either 16mm or 20mm engineered oak, there's actually very little price difference between solid and engineered but engineered doesn't move with moisture apparently. I'm hoping to get the old skirtings off undamaged as they're oak anyway. It's a chipboard subfloor so I'll see if the local tool hire has a nailgun I can rent and I'll run glue down the tongues. Don't fancy spreading glue all over the floor to hold it.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Andy Bee

Anyone any experience on wood flooring, engineered or solid? glue, floating or nailed? Underlay or no underlay? There's so much conflicting advice online. Also an expansion joint is always recommended but why would you need one if the floor is nailed or glued, I'm lost?

---

I've laid loads of flooring in my various houses over the years. First one I went for real wood, thinking it would be the best. Can't fault it, but it was expensive, and quite frankly - unless you're going to be sanding/varnishing/sanding/varnishing over years and years then I don't see the need for it.

Since then I've always had engineered and never had a single problem with it. I always go for one that has a fairly thick top layer. I've avoided the 3-4mm top layer options.

I always screw mines down with this kind of screw (https://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Tong...All%20Products)

I've almost always removed the skirting boards first, as it just gives a better finish, but my current bedroom I just left an expansion gap and covered with some beading, looks absolutely fine to be honest.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Wembley67

You could give these guys a shout for a roof clean? I've used them for a couple of jobs before and they have been outstanding (and very affordable!

https://www.bdsproclean.co.uk/

---

Booked Sean in for later in the summer, thanks for the recommendation:aok:

Our Soffits and Facias have been completed and it looks night and day. A really top job.

I would normally would not hesitate in recommending a firm who does a job like this but something left a slightly bad taste. Payment was on completion of the work. We paid the invoice that evening at 8:30, but my father-in-law had received a message from the boss of the company asking where the money was. It went to him as father-in-law had put us in touch with him.

We didn't know when the job was going to be finished, so it took a bit of admin time to collate the money and send it across, coupled with kids bedtimes etc we got it paid up within 4 hours of completion.

So while they did a great job it was slightly perplexed at the attitude of the boss.

And he's a hun.

Is this normal practice? When I've had work done previously it's expected to pay for it within maybe 24/48 hours of completion, but I've never been hounded for money within hours of a job being finished.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Jones28

Our Soffits and Facias have been completed and it looks night and day. A really top job.

I would normally would not hesitate in recommending a firm who does a job like this but something left a slightly bad taste. Payment was on completion of the work. We paid the invoice that evening at 8:30, but my father-in-law had received a message from the boss of the company asking where the money was. It went to him as father-in-law had put us in touch with him.

We didn't know when the job was going to be finished, so it took a bit of admin time to collate the money and send it across, coupled with kids bedtimes etc we got it paid up within 4 hours of completion.

So while they did a great job it was slightly perplexed at the attitude of the boss.

And he's a hun.

Is this normal practice? When I've had work done previously it's expected to pay for it within maybe 24/48 hours of completion, but I've never been hounded for money within hours of a job being finished.

---

Payment upon completion of a job has always been by the next day for any jobs I have had done, I would be pretty pissed off if hounded straight away, I like to have a bit of time to check everything is done to my satisfaction.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Scouse Hibee

Payment upon completion of a job has always been by the next day for any jobs I have had done, I would be pretty pissed off if hounded straight away, I like to have a bit of time to check everything is done to my satisfaction.

---

Having spoken to the father in law he said it's because he pays his guys the day they finish a job, thats all well and good but hardly my problem if thats the way he does business.

Hope you're well mate, we are making progress and now I've reclaimed the garage from the joiners we should be able to get more done very soon - thanks again for your assistance :aok:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Jones28

Having spoken to the father in law he said it's because he pays his guys the day they finish a job, thats all well and good but hardly my problem if thats the way he does business.

Hope you're well mate, we are making progress and now I've reclaimed the garage from the joiners we should be able to get more done very soon - thanks again for your assistance :aok:

---

I look forward to the pictures of progress 😀👍

New product introduced by Watson in letterkenny that’s been selling well here over the last few years ..

https://www.facebook.com/watsonhire/...05462069/?_rdr