Gardening tips and queries

I know, not a very exciting subject, but then I'm not a very exciting person.

Anyway, I'm growing tomatoes in my conservatory for the umpteenth year and this year I'm getting white spots on the leaves, unlike any I've seen before. They don't rub off, so presumably not mould or fungus - does anyone know what it is and what I should do about it?

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Not an expert, but those look like eggs, there are some moths that particularly like laying eggs in leaves. The larvae will eat away inside the leaf, leaving a white trail, until it pupates.

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Originally Posted by speedy_gonzales

Not an expert, but those look like eggs, there are some moths that particularly like laying eggs in leaves. The larvae will eat away inside the leaf, leaving a white trail, until it pupates.

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That was my thoughts as well, an egg of some sort.

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Originally Posted by speedy_gonzales

Not an expert, but those look like eggs, there are some moths that particularly like laying eggs in leaves. The larvae will eat away inside the leaf, leaving a white trail, until it pupates.

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That was certainly my first thought, but I've tried rubbing them off and they just don't move - they actually seem to be discolouration of the leaves.

Its not blight or canker or any of the nasty ones, not fungal. Doesnt look like a major problem, wont affect your plants ability to photosynthesise or form fruit trusses.

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Originally Posted by hibsbollah

Its not blight or canker or any of the nasty ones, not fungal. Doesnt look like a major problem, wont affect your plants ability to photosynthesise or form fruit trusses.

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Thanks, I was hoping someone would say something like that. I'll keep an eye on it and if it gets worse I'll cut back the affected leaves (it's only appearing on a few at the moment).

To add a tip, if you get blossom end rot (blackening and eventual rotting at the bottom of the fruit) as I did last year, it's usually due to the plant not picking up enough calcium. Crushed eggshells tend to take too long to release their calcium, but crushed up Rennies (or other indigestion tablets) are a good quick fix. You should remove the affected tomatoes though as they won't heal.

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Originally Posted by Caversham Green

Thanks, I was hoping someone would say something like that. I'll keep an eye on it and if it gets worse I'll cut back the affected leaves (it's only appearing on a few at the moment).

To add a tip, if you get blossom end rot (blackening and eventual rotting at the bottom of the fruit) as I did last year, it's usually due to the plant not picking up enough calcium. Crushed eggshells tend to take too long to release their calcium, but crushed up Rennies (or other indigestion tablets) are a good quick fix. You should remove the affected tomatoes though as they won't heal.

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That’s what id do. Just remove any affected leaves if you’re worried about it. Nice tip about the end rot. The key thing ive found to cause end rot is irregular watering.

Google says a moth, which will hatch and eat the leaves, pick affected leaves and get rid.

Download “plant parent “app
I tried it on your photo & it says - thrips are tiny ,Sap sucking insects

whatever it is, I've cut off the affected leaves - better safe than sorry.

BTW, please use this thread to discuss any gardening issues you have, not just my tomatoes.

Folks

just tilled the lawn after building work compacted the soil so starting from Scratch.

Bought a tiller from Screwfix which has done a fab job. Now o need to add some lime (it’s mainly acidic/ clay soil then I think it’s reseeding fertilized?

but my question is which grass seeds. I hate the thicker bladed grass San we used to have. Really fine grass. But k can’t see to locate is that the bowling green grass?

best place to source? Dobbies suggested Google and the internet.

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Originally Posted by Viva_Palmeiras

Folks

just tilled the lawn after building work compacted the soil so starting from Scratch.

Bought a tiller from Screwfix which has done a fab job. Now o need to add some lime (it’s mainly acidic/ clay soil then I think it’s reseeding fertilized?

but my question is which grass seeds. I hate the thicker bladed grass San we used to have. Really fine grass. But k can’t see to locate is that the bowling green grass?

best place to source? Dobbies suggested Google and the internet.

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You want amenity perennial ryegrass, bent grasses, fescues etc.

Have a look at Masterline, M/M seeds or Johnson’s grass seed and make sure it’s a fine grass seed mixture.

Avoid supermarket stuff.

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Originally Posted by Jones28

You want amenity perennial ryegrass, bent grasses, fescues etc.

Have a look at Masterline, M/M seeds or Johnson’s grass seed and make sure it’s a fine grass seed mixture.

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Also consider having a look at A1 Lawn online.
Decent range and good quality seed & granular fertilisers.
My soil has a lot of clay, I went for the a mix including red fescue which can tolerate the very wet and very dry that comes with clay. I'm also hoping the deep roots that come with some fescues will break up the clay over time (I add organic material seasonally).

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Originally Posted by speedy_gonzales

Also consider having a look at A1 Lawn online.
Decent range and good quality seed & granular fertilisers.
My soil has a lot of clay, I went for the a mix including red fescue which can tolerate the very wet and very dry that comes with clay. I'm also hoping the deep roots that come with some fescues will break up the clay over time (I add organic material seasonally).

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Tha s folks A1 is where I’ve been looking. They have a bowling tree type mix they talk about reseeding fertilizer we have fishbone and stuff already what did you put down first time

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Originally Posted by Viva_Palmeiras

Tha s folks A1 is where I’ve been looking. They have a bowling tree type mix they talk about reseeding fertilizer we have fishbone and stuff already what did you put down first time

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Apart from the granular fertilisers, I didn't really add anything special to the ground before seeding except a fair bit sand.
I still top dress my lawn with a bulk bag of lawn mix from Caledonian Horticulture. The contents is a lot better (im my opinion) than what you'd get from most garden centres and is very friable so brushes in to the lawn easily.

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Originally Posted by Viva_Palmeiras

Folks

just tilled the lawn after building work compacted the soil so starting from Scratch.

Bought a tiller from Screwfix which has done a fab job. Now o need to add some lime (it’s mainly acidic/ clay soil then I think it’s reseeding fertilized?

but my question is which grass seeds. I hate the thicker bladed grass San we used to have. Really fine grass. But k can’t see to locate is that the bowling green grass?

best place to source? Dobbies suggested Google and the internet.

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I would not look anywhere else apart from Rigby Taylor, they are based at Newbridge if you that helps. Don't buy on the website tough as it's much cheaper if you go in, no account is needed.

https://www.rigbytaylor.com/

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Originally Posted by speedy_gonzales

Also consider having a look at A1 Lawn online.
Decent range and good quality seed & granular fertilisers.
My soil has a lot of clay, I went for the a mix including red fescue which can tolerate the very wet and very dry that comes with clay. I'm also hoping the deep roots that come with some fescues will break up the clay over time (I add organic material seasonally).

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If you have clay issues then Liquid Gypsum is the way forward. The clay busters on the market are generally pellets and take YEARS to make even the slightest bit of different.

You are correct that the deep roots will help although you'll probably be deid by the time you see any difference!

https://eutrema.co.uk/shop/soil-cond...liquid-gypsum/

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Originally Posted by Wembley67

If you have clay issues then Liquid Gypsum is the way forward. The clay busters on the market are generally pellets and take YEARS to make even the slightest bit of different.

You are correct that the deep roots will help although you'll probably be deid by the time you see any difference!

https://eutrema.co.uk/shop/soil-cond...liquid-gypsum/

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should I pop some top spoil on or is lime and the pressed fertilizer sufficient ?
having a real tussle with levelling just wan to get it done…

Does anyone know what the general rule/law is around height of trees? My neighbour has a tree that overhangs mine and another neighbours garden and is taller than the houses. They cannot maintain this themselves and have never had anyone out to tend to it in the 5 years I’ve lived here. It blocks sunlight, although not for a massive amount of time, during the afternoon and if it was to be blown over in very strong winds it would fall into either mine or the other neighbours gardens causing damage to fences, decking etc.

I think it’s a pine tree, the needles cause a lot of mess in the neighbouring gardens because it is so tall and overhangs.

Realise there may not be a specific law but has anyone had experience in dealing with these things?

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Originally Posted by Trinity Hibee

Does anyone know what the general rule/law is around height of trees? My neighbour has a tree that overhangs mine and another neighbours garden and is taller than the houses. They cannot maintain this themselves and have never had anyone out to tend to it in the 5 years I’ve lived here. It blocks sunlight, although not for a massive amount of time, during the afternoon and if it was to be blown over in very strong winds it would fall into either mine or the other neighbours gardens causing damage to fences, decking etc.

I think it’s a pine tree, the needles cause a lot of mess in the neighbouring gardens because it is so tall and overhangs.

Realise there may not be a specific law but has anyone had experience in dealing with these things?

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https://www.edinburgh.gov.uk/overhangingfoliage#:~:text=Emergency%20overhanging %20foliage%20*%200800%2023%2023,1100%20weekdays%20 5pm%20to%208am%20and%20weekends.

AI Overview

If a tree on a neighbour's property is causing issues, Edinburgh City Council offers resources to help resolve them. You can report overhanging foliage, like branches or roots crossing onto your property, and the Council may take action if a tree is deemed a public safety hazard. If you're unsure whether a tree is protected, you can check with the Council to ensure you're not carrying out work without permission.

Here's a more detailed breakdown:

Overhanging Foliage:
You can report overhanging branches or roots to Edinburgh City Council.
The Council will assess the situation and may take action to make the tree safe, especially if it's deemed a hazard.
If the tree is not protected, you can trim overhanging branches on your side of the property boundary, but you cannot enter your neighbour's property without their consent.
The Council cannot become involved in disputes between neighbours over tree issues.

Protected Trees:
Before undertaking any work on a tree, check if it's protected by a tree preservation order or is located within a conservation area.
If a tree is protected, you need permission from the Council to carry out any work.
It is an offence to damage or carry out work on a protected tree without permission.

General Advice:
If a neighbour's tree or hedge is blocking light to your home, try to resolve the issue with your neighbour first.
You can apply for a High Hedge Notice from the Council if you cannot agree with your neighbour on the matter.
The Council can't make orders about tree or hedge roots, only the foliage.
If the roots of a tree are affecting your garden, you should seek general advice on resolving neighbour disputes.

Whats the best and most reliable solar powered bird bath/water fountain, in the process of landscaping my back garden and would love a water feature to finish it off.

Any advice appreciated.

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Originally Posted by Bridge hibs

Whats the best and most reliable solar powered bird bath/water fountain, in the process of landscaping my back garden and would love a water feature to finish it off.

Any advice appreciated.

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Got a couple of these floating LED fountains and they work fine in a suitably sized bowl.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/266683490574

A year ago I put a young dwarf apple tree into a very large pot. It was fine. Wintered ok with healthy budding early spring. However, after a few weeks, the leaves started to go brown at the edges and quite a few died. I was going to bin it but saw a few fresh, but sparse leaves sprouting. It made some progress but some of the leaves started to wilt again. Again, I was going to bin it, but, as a last resort, I’ve planted it into the garden. Is it likely to recover or am I wasting time and space?

After five years our birdbox finally has something nesting in it. Unfortunately it’s wasps. I’ve ordered some wasp powder to attack their nest with. Anybody used it before, how angry will the stripey wee ***** get?

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Originally Posted by marinello59

After five years our birdbox finally has something nesting in it. Unfortunately it’s wasps. I’ve ordered some wasp powder to attack their nest with. Anybody used it before, how angry will the stripey wee ***** get?

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We got professionals in when our old shed was overtaken by wasps and I kept getting stung. They went mental and stung the guy even though he had protective gear on.

I’ve seen something online where if you can trap them against a surface with a vessel with some petrol in it, they all just drop down dead

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Originally Posted by marinello59

After five years our birdbox finally has something nesting in it. Unfortunately it’s wasps. I’ve ordered some wasp powder to attack their nest with. Anybody used it before, how angry will the stripey wee ***** get?

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I've got rid of quite a few wasp nests either in my own house or folk I know.
I'd approach it late at night so they'd be less busy and give the entrance of the nest a good dousing of generic ant powder.
It'll take a day or so but the powder gets carried throughout the nest by the wasps coming and going.
If the nest is somewhere out the way, like an attic eave, I tend to leave it as the presence of an old nest will dissuade the development of new bykes.

Any tips on best place to site a bird home, I had one a few years ago and it was a joy to see wee tits using it and having their kids. That only happened for a couple of years and I think the little ****ers done a moonlight flit as their hoose lay empty for years after.

Also, whats the best cordless fence sprayer out there for around £50/£60 ? I know there are literally hundreds out there but have any of you guys purchased and used one you would recommend.

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Originally Posted by Jim44

A year ago I put a young dwarf apple tree into a very large pot. It was fine. Wintered ok with healthy budding early spring. However, after a few weeks, the leaves started to go brown at the edges and quite a few died. I was going to bin it but saw a few fresh, but sparse leaves sprouting. It made some progress but some of the leaves started to wilt again. Again, I was going to bin it, but, as a last resort, I’ve planted it into the garden. Is it likely to recover or am I wasting time and space?

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Trees will always prefer to be in the ground rather than a pot because of the nutrients available to the plant youre not getting in a container. So youve done the right thing. Could you have overwatered perhaps? Sometimes if you use a pot thats too big that can result in overwatering. Give it another growing season and see how it goes.

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Originally Posted by hibsbollah

Trees will always prefer to be in the ground rather than a pot because of the nutrients available to the plant youre not getting in a container. So youve done the right thing. Could you have overwatered perhaps? Sometimes if you use a pot thats too big that can result in overwatering. Give it another growing season and see how it goes.

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Cheers. Fingers crossed.

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Originally Posted by overdrive

We got professionals in when our old shed was overtaken by wasps and I kept getting stung. They went mental and stung the guy even though he had protective gear on.

I’ve seen something online where if you can trap them against a surface with a vessel with some petrol in it, they all just drop down dead

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Originally Posted by speedy_gonzales

I've got rid of quite a few wasp nests either in my own house or folk I know.
I'd approach it late at night so they'd be less busy and give the entrance of the nest a good dousing of generic ant powder.
It'll take a day or so but the powder gets carried throughout the nest by the wasps coming and going.
If the nest is somewhere out the way, like an attic eave, I tend to leave it as the presence of an old nest will dissuade the development of new bykes.

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Thanks.
It's quite easy to get to so I'll give it a go with the powder. Or send the wife out to do it, safety first and all that. :greengrin