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  1. #1
    @hibs.net private member sleeping giant's Avatar
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    Couple of DIY questions

    I am undertaking a few well overdue DIY jobs all at the same time.
    Laying flooring throughout , tiling the kitchen and downstairs bathroom and fitting new kitchen work tops and sink.

    My main question about is fitting the sink and taps. We currently have two taps on our existing sink but would like to swap to a single mixer tap.
    Would I need a plumber to change the way The water is fed to the taps. Obviously I have a hot water feed and cold water feed. Is it a simple job to convert to a mixer ?

    Other question is fitting new door frames and specifically the join to the skirting board. The skirting and frame will be shaped ( moulded I think the term is) so was thinking it would be difficult to join them.
    My mate suggests a separate door face block at the bottom of the frame the same height as the skirting.
    is this easy to mess up


    I made an absolute erse of tiling my kitchen floor a few years ago so I want to prove I am manly enough to do a decent job this time.

    Compound mitre saw for the skirtings and frames ?
    No Eternal Reward Shall Forgive Us Now For Wasting The Dawn


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  3. #2
    @hibs.net private member Peevemor's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sleeping giant View Post
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    I am undertaking a few well overdue DIY jobs all at the same time.
    Laying flooring throughout , tiling the kitchen and downstairs bathroom and fitting new kitchen work tops and sink.

    My main question about is fitting the sink and taps. We currently have two taps on our existing sink but would like to swap to a single mixer tap.
    Would I need a plumber to change the way The water is fed to the taps. Obviously I have a hot water feed and cold water feed. Is it a simple job to convert to a mixer ?

    Other question is fitting new door frames and specifically the join to the skirting board. The skirting and frame will be shaped ( moulded I think the term is) so was thinking it would be difficult to join them.
    My mate suggests a separate door face block at the bottom of the frame the same height as the skirting.
    is this easy to mess up


    I made an absolute erse of tiling my kitchen floor a few years ago so I want to prove I am manly enough to do a decent job this time.

    Compound mitre saw for the skirtings and frames ?
    Skirting blocks are definitely the way to go. They should be a few mm higher and thicker than the skirting which will give you a bit of tolerance (things never sit as flush as they could).

    As for the taps, it depends on your existing supplies. If they're flexible then it's pretty straightforward but if they're copper then get a plumber in.

  4. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by sleeping giant View Post
    This quote is hidden because you are ignoring this member. Show Quote
    I am undertaking a few well overdue DIY jobs all at the same time.
    Laying flooring throughout , tiling the kitchen and downstairs bathroom and fitting new kitchen work tops and sink.

    My main question about is fitting the sink and taps. We currently have two taps on our existing sink but would like to swap to a single mixer tap.
    Would I need a plumber to change the way The water is fed to the taps. Obviously I have a hot water feed and cold water feed. Is it a simple job to convert to a mixer ?

    Other question is fitting new door frames and specifically the join to the skirting board. The skirting and frame will be shaped ( moulded I think the term is) so was thinking it would be difficult to join them.
    My mate suggests a separate door face block at the bottom of the frame the same height as the skirting.
    is this easy to mess up


    I made an absolute erse of tiling my kitchen floor a few years ago so I want to prove I am manly enough to do a decent job this time.

    Compound mitre saw for the skirtings and frames ?
    Most new monoblock taps (single hole) come with flexible connections. When you purchase your tap add in 2 15mm compression straights and a set of monoblock tap spanners for tightening the back nut.

  5. #4
    @hibs.net private member Jack's Avatar
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    For the tiling get an electric tile cutter from the likes of B&Q, they're 30/40. http://www.diy.com/departments/plasp.../653270_BQ.prd

    After a few perfectly straight cuts at a perfect size you'll become much more adventurous; corners, L shapes and even round bits will become second nature!
    Space to let

  6. #5
    Old enough to know better. Stupid enough to do it anyway. Mr White's Avatar
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    By the time you've spent money on a compound mitre saw, electric tile cutter and enough plumbing components to fit out hearts new megastand... and then slugged away at it all for a few weeks you'll wish you just paid a professional and enjoyed some leisure time...

    Good luck

  7. #6
    @hibs.net private member sleeping giant's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Peevemor View Post
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    Skirting blocks are definitely the way to go. They should be a few mm higher and thicker than the skirting which will give you a bit of tolerance (things never sit as flush as they could).

    As for the taps, it depends on your existing supplies. If they're flexible then it's pretty straightforward but if they're copper then get a plumber in.
    Would you put the skirting block on first before fitting the door frame and skirting ?
    No Eternal Reward Shall Forgive Us Now For Wasting The Dawn

  8. #7
    @hibs.net private member sleeping giant's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr White View Post
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    By the time you've spent money on a compound mitre saw, electric tile cutter and enough plumbing components to fit out hearts new megastand... and then slugged away at it all for a few weeks you'll wish you just paid a professional and enjoyed some leisure time...

    Good luck
    That had crossed my mind

    I want to prove I'm a man though.
    No Eternal Reward Shall Forgive Us Now For Wasting The Dawn

  9. #8
    @hibs.net private member sleeping giant's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by stoneyburn hibs View Post
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    Most new monoblock taps (single hole) come with flexible connections. When you purchase your tap add in 2 15mm compression straights and a set of monoblock tap spanners for tightening the back nut.
    Thanks for that.
    I think a few you tube videos will be in order
    No Eternal Reward Shall Forgive Us Now For Wasting The Dawn

  10. #9
    Old enough to know better. Stupid enough to do it anyway. Mr White's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sleeping giant View Post
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    Would you put the skirting block on first before fitting the door frame and skirting ?
    Yes. I'd fit the blocks first, at least pin them in place then fit the skirting up to them and the facings off the top of them.

  11. #10
    @hibs.net private member Peevemor's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sleeping giant View Post
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    Would you put the skirting block on first before fitting the door frame and skirting ?
    Door frame, skirting block then skirtings & facings.

  12. #11
    Old enough to know better. Stupid enough to do it anyway. Mr White's Avatar
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    Are you actually replacing the door lining, stops and facings... or just the facings?

  13. #12
    @hibs.net private member sleeping giant's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr White View Post
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    Are you actually replacing the door lining, stops and facings... or just the facings?
    Just the facings to match the skirtings.
    No Eternal Reward Shall Forgive Us Now For Wasting The Dawn

  14. #13
    @hibs.net private member sleeping giant's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Peevemor View Post
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    Door frame, skirting block then skirtings & facings.
    Sorry. Should have said facings not frame
    No Eternal Reward Shall Forgive Us Now For Wasting The Dawn

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