Couple of DIY questions

[sleeping giant]

I am undertaking a few well overdue DIY jobs all at the same time.
Laying flooring throughout , tiling the kitchen and downstairs bathroom and fitting new kitchen work tops and sink.

My main question about is fitting the sink and taps. We currently have two taps on our existing sink but would like to swap to a single mixer tap.
Would I need a plumber to change the way The water is fed to the taps. Obviously I have a hot water feed and cold water feed. Is it a simple job to convert to a mixer ?

Other question is fitting new door frames and specifically the join to the skirting board. The skirting and frame will be shaped ( moulded I think the term is) so was thinking it would be difficult to join them.
My mate suggests a separate door face block at the bottom of the frame the same height as the skirting.
is this easy to mess up


I made an absolute erse of tiling my kitchen floor a few years ago so I want to prove I am manly enough to do a decent job this time.

Compound mitre saw for the skirtings and frames ?

[Peevemor]

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I am undertaking a few well overdue DIY jobs all at the same time.
Laying flooring throughout , tiling the kitchen and downstairs bathroom and fitting new kitchen work tops and sink.

My main question about is fitting the sink and taps. We currently have two taps on our existing sink but would like to swap to a single mixer tap.
Would I need a plumber to change the way The water is fed to the taps. Obviously I have a hot water feed and cold water feed. Is it a simple job to convert to a mixer ?

Other question is fitting new door frames and specifically the join to the skirting board. The skirting and frame will be shaped ( moulded I think the term is) so was thinking it would be difficult to join them.
My mate suggests a separate door face block at the bottom of the frame the same height as the skirting.
is this easy to mess up


I made an absolute erse of tiling my kitchen floor a few years ago so I want to prove I am manly enough to do a decent job this time.

Compound mitre saw for the skirtings and frames ?

Skirting blocks are definitely the way to go. They should be a few mm higher and thicker than the skirting which will give you a bit of tolerance (things never sit as flush as they could).

As for the taps, it depends on your existing supplies. If they're flexible then it's pretty straightforward but if they're copper then get a plumber in.

[stoneyburn hibs]

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I am undertaking a few well overdue DIY jobs all at the same time.
Laying flooring throughout , tiling the kitchen and downstairs bathroom and fitting new kitchen work tops and sink.

My main question about is fitting the sink and taps. We currently have two taps on our existing sink but would like to swap to a single mixer tap.
Would I need a plumber to change the way The water is fed to the taps. Obviously I have a hot water feed and cold water feed. Is it a simple job to convert to a mixer ?

Other question is fitting new door frames and specifically the join to the skirting board. The skirting and frame will be shaped ( moulded I think the term is) so was thinking it would be difficult to join them.
My mate suggests a separate door face block at the bottom of the frame the same height as the skirting.
is this easy to mess up


I made an absolute erse of tiling my kitchen floor a few years ago so I want to prove I am manly enough to do a decent job this time.

Compound mitre saw for the skirtings and frames ?

Most new monoblock taps (single hole) come with flexible connections. When you purchase your tap add in 2 15mm compression straights and a set of monoblock tap spanners for tightening the back nut.

[Jack]

For the tiling get an electric tile cutter from the likes of B&Q, they're £30/40. http://www.diy.com/departments/plasp.../653270_BQ.prd

After a few perfectly straight cuts at a perfect size you'll become much more adventurous; corners, L shapes and even round bits will become second nature!

[Mr White]

By the time you've spent money on a compound mitre saw, electric tile cutter and enough plumbing components to fit out hearts new megastand... and then slugged away at it all for a few weeks you'll wish you just paid a professional and enjoyed some leisure time...

Good luck

[sleeping giant]

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Skirting blocks are definitely the way to go. They should be a few mm higher and thicker than the skirting which will give you a bit of tolerance (things never sit as flush as they could).

As for the taps, it depends on your existing supplies. If they're flexible then it's pretty straightforward but if they're copper then get a plumber in.

Would you put the skirting block on first before fitting the door frame and skirting ?

[sleeping giant]

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By the time you've spent money on a compound mitre saw, electric tile cutter and enough plumbing components to fit out hearts new megastand... and then slugged away at it all for a few weeks you'll wish you just paid a professional and enjoyed some leisure time...

Good luck

That had crossed my mind

I want to prove I'm a man though.

[sleeping giant]

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Most new monoblock taps (single hole) come with flexible connections. When you purchase your tap add in 2 15mm compression straights and a set of monoblock tap spanners for tightening the back nut.

Thanks for that.
I think a few you tube videos will be in order

[Mr White]

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Would you put the skirting block on first before fitting the door frame and skirting ?

Yes. I'd fit the blocks first, at least pin them in place then fit the skirting up to them and the facings off the top of them.

[Peevemor]

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Would you put the skirting block on first before fitting the door frame and skirting ?

Door frame, skirting block then skirtings & facings.

[Mr White]

Are you actually replacing the door lining, stops and facings... or just the facings?

[sleeping giant]

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Are you actually replacing the door lining, stops and facings... or just the facings?

Just the facings to match the skirtings.

[sleeping giant]

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Door frame, skirting block then skirtings & facings.

Sorry. Should have said facings not frame

[sleeping giant]

Well , took 4 days off work and the weekend and I have floored the whole downstairs and fitted normal skirting in the kitchen.
Still to fit the shaped skirting in the living room and will be practicing the corner joins later. They look a nightmare to do.
YouTube videos suggest using a coping saw but it looks pretty difficult compared to normal skirting.

The house is an absolute mess .

Decided against the door facings .

[Mr White]

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Well , took 4 days off work and the weekend and I have floored the whole downstairs and fitted normal skirting in the kitchen.
Still to fit the shaped skirting in the living room and will be practicing the corner joins later. They look a nightmare to do.
YouTube videos suggest using a coping saw but it looks pretty difficult compared to normal skirting.

The house is an absolute mess .

Decided against the door facings .

Coping saw is the way to go for internal scribed joints. Depending on the profile of the skirting you can sometimes remove the bulk of the material with a jigsaw or handsaw and finish it off with the coping saw. It helps to cut a slight angle into the back of the joint. Do a few practice cuts and you'll get the hang of it quick enough.

Is the skirting being painted? If so decorators caulk could be a good friend to you

[Scouse Hibee]

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Well , took 4 days off work and the weekend and I have floored the whole downstairs and fitted normal skirting in the kitchen.
Still to fit the shaped skirting in the living room and will be practicing the corner joins later. They look a nightmare to do.
YouTube videos suggest using a coping saw but it looks pretty difficult compared to normal skirting.

The house is an absolute mess .

Decided against the door facings .

I always use a coping saw, though I have been off the tools for 25 years I have never lost my touch with it :-) And it's my original "Eclipse" one I bought as an apprentice.

[Peevemor]

Mitre box!